Welcome to Garden Zone, a monthly newsletter for anyone interested in gardening. ​​It's produced by Extension Master Gardener volunteers in Mecklenburg County. View in your browser November Garden Tasks In the Piedmont area, November is the time we enjoy the fall leaf colors. It’s also the time when we see our first frost. Here are some tasks for your garden: ✳️ November is an ideal time to plant or transplant trees, shrubs and groundcovers. Be sure to water thoroughly, then mulch the new plants with a good 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch. ✳️ Newly planted evergreens should be checked regularly during the winter to ensure they are getting enough water. ✳️ Mulch existing trees and shrubs to reduce weeds, provide insulation from freezing temperatures and conserve moisture. ✳️ It’s a good time to check trees and shrubs in your yard for “volcano” mulching - mulch piled high around the base or trunk of the plant. If found, pull back the mulch from the trunk and create a “donut” instead – little or no mulch against the base or trunk of the plant. A heavy layer of mulch around the base can lead to girdling roots as well as foster insect, disease, and rodent problems. ✳️ Take root cuttings now of woody shrubs and evergreens, like azaleas, hollies and hydrangeas. ✳️ Cut back peonies after the first frost. It’s also a good time to plant asparagus crowns and strawberry plants. Finish planting onion sets and garlic. ✳️ Cut cannas right above ground level and remove the debris to avoid over-wintering leaf rollers. ✳️ Don’t forget to remove all dead foliage and clean up vegetable and flower beds after the first killing frost. Apply new mulch or plant a cover crop, if desired. ✳️ Fescue lawns (a cool season grass) should be fertilized mid-month (about the time the grass is green but not actively growing). If you have Bermuda (a warm season grass), if the lawn is not overseeded in the winter, raise the mowing height 1⁄2 inch to protect it from winter kill. https://www.mastergardenersmecklenburg.org/november-planting.html Growing Vegetables in Fall/Winter Have you ever considered growing vegetables all winter long? Well, here in our area it is possible to have an abundance of winter vegetables! What grows well? Cabbage, kale, broccoli, arugula, lettuce, spinach... just to name a few. No space? Try container gardening. Garden centers currently carry several types of cold hardy vegetables. Look for good-quality plants that are stocky and medium size with a healthy appearance and good color, are free from insects and diseases, and have a well-developed root system. Transplant in early evening to prevent stress from sun, and when the forecast for the next few days does not include heavy rain that could harm new transplants. Handle the plants carefully to avoid disturbing the roots and bruising the stem. Bury at the same depth as it grew in the container. Water every few days (in the morning) and keep plants moist but do not over water; water the soil and not the plants. Fertilize 3-6 weeks after planting. Want to know more? NCSU’s Vegetable Gardening: A Beginner's Guide , Vegetable Planting Table , and Fall Vegetable Gardening . Ready, set, grow! Photo courtesy of Anne Moyer, NCSU Wildflower Seed Propagation Now is a good time to collect seeds of fall blooming flowers. Most native plant and wildflower seeds require a period of moist cold (winter) for the seed to germinate. Collect the seeds, dry them, and store them in the refrigerator until planting in late fall or early winter. Native seeds require about 40 days at or below 40 degrees in order to germinate. There are many nurseries’ websites that have specific info on recommended cold stratification periods for different wildflower species. Plant the seeds in containers of sterile potting soil in clear or opaque containers with drainage and vent holes top and bottom (hot glue gun works well at making holes). Place the seeds outside in an area protected from wildlife and extreme weather (e.g. front porch) and don’t let them dry out. Annuals, like zinnia seeds, can also be collected but they don’t need that cold stratification and can be stored in a dry place and planted in the spring when it warms up. Make sure you label all seeds! Photos by Jean Wilson Photo from NCSU Plant Toolbox Blueberries Ready to replace a few azaleas or try some new shrubs? Blueberries could be your new look! Blueberries provide spring white and pink flowers, blue summer fruit, and autumn red and yellow leaves. They are mostly pest free and considered easy to grow. Fall is the right time to prepare your beds for February planting. You can also plant potted blueberries in November to December. Choose 2-3 year old nursery plants. The best varieties to grow in the Piedmont are Rabbiteye. Be sure to plant two different varieties since rabbiteye blueberries are not self pollinating. Blueberries flower at about the same time, so you can choose any two varieties. Varieties of Rabbiteye Bearing Time Climax and Premier Early bearers, mid to late June Columbus and Onslow Midseason bearers Powderblue Late bearer, late July to early August Blueberries must have acid soil with a pH of 4.0 to 5.3. Have an accurate soil test by submitting a sample to Raleigh ( https://chatham.ces.ncsu.edu/soil-testing-for-lawns-and-gardens/ ). The results of the soil test will indicate how to amend the soil if necessary. To assure good drainage add plenty of organic material to the soil, grow in raised beds, or grow in large planters. Be sure to water regularly to keep soil moist but not wet. Plant blueberries near each other to assure pollination. Plant in a sunny location. Blueberries can tolerate some shade, but not over 50%. The more sun, the more yield. The reward of 10 pounds of blueberries from each plant is enticing! For specific information on growing blueberries, go to “Growing Blueberries in the Home Garden” ( https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/growing-blueberries-in-the-home-garden ). Photo by Sylvia Hindman GIVE GARDEN GERANIUMS A NEW LIFE Pelargonium x hortorum (whose name has recently been changed to Pelargonium x hybridum) is what we commonly refer to as the Garden Geranium or Zonal Geranium. In zones 10-11 they are perennials but in our climate they are planted as annuals. These brightly colored, thick-leaved flowering plants have graced our porches and window boxes since before Grandma’s time bringing both beauty and nostalgia to our summer displays. Come cold weather, we all mourn a little as we toss these lovely plants onto the compost heap or into the trash. But … wait! Thinking back to bygone days when resourcefulness and frugality were the norm, most gardeners over-wintered these treasures to bloom again the following year. There are 3 easy ways to do this and one of them will work best for you. ► Move them inside : If planted in the ground, dig them up and repot them about a month before the first frost. Container grown plants can simply be brought indoors with your other houseplants. Check for insects, trim off dead flowers, and place your plants in a sunny location (west windows are preferred). Keep them moist and fertilize in spring. ► Take cuttings : If space is limited or you want to increase the number of plants, take cuttings, dip in rooting hormone, and insert them into small pots filled with good potting soil. ► Cold storage : Prune the plant back heavily, water deeply, and place it in an unheated garage/greenhouse/crawl space that stays above freezing but not over 60 degrees. Check monthly and water when the soil is bone dry. Old-time garden techniques can be fun and provide a sense of accomplishment – give it a try! Wood Cockroach Wood cockroaches are also known as wood roaches and are native to North America. They are outdoor dwellers whose normal habitats are moist woodland areas. They often are considered “accidental invaders” because they often wander in or are carried in to homes. Wood roaches that have found their way into the house act differently than the common house roach. They are active both day and night, they don’t run when approached and are not secretive. These particular roaches don’t reproduce in the house because they require a very specific breeding and living environment. Wood roaches require the constant moist environment of their natural habitat to survive such as rotting logs, and under leaf, bark and wood piles. The American roach or common household roach is similar in appearance. They are both flat, oval, have long antennae, chestnut brown and have spiny legs; however, the wood roach is slightly smaller and has lighter wings. Eradicating the wood roach is more difficult than getting rid of the common house roach. The sprays and powders used have limited success in providing relief from this little brown annoyance. Preventing the wood roach from entering your home basically comes down to moving breeding sites, storing fire wood outdoors, limiting porch lights at night and making sure doors and windows have no gaps or cracks. If you find a wood roach indoors simply pick it up and toss it outside close to a wood pile. Hellebores (Lenten Roses) Hellebores make a great addition of blooming color to winter gardens. These evergreen plants have blooms that come in many colors and prefer shady, well drained, humus rich and fertile soil. Hellebores are large, cold hardy perennials that do very well in zones 4-9. Also known as Lenten Roses, they are deer resistant and can leave a gardener with a mild rash if handled too long without gloves. Hellebores are usually available in nurseries from November – March; but can be planted from early fall through late spring with blooms also lasting well into late spring. A mature plant can get up to 2ft x 2ft and produce many seedlings that can be transplanted to other places in one’s garden. Photo: EMG Gina Tadle Like our content? Share it with friends