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Welcome to Garden Zone, a monthly newsletter for anyone interested in gardening. ​​It's produced by Extension Master Gardener Volunteers in Mecklenburg County.

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September Garden Tasks

September can be one of the busiest months in the garden. With cooler temperatures headed our way, September typically brings relief to gardens and signals the start of a new season.

Tasks to consider for your home garden:

PERENNIALS & ANNUALS
✳️ Fertilize annuals: give them one last feeding to keep their blooms coming as long as possible.
✳️ Divide spring- and summer-blooming perennials and keep them well-watered.
✳️ Order bulbs and garlic while the selection is good. Keep them cool until time to plant in October or November, once soil temperatures drop.

VEGETABLES
✳️ Plant broccoli, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, radishes and spinach.
✳️ Continue to monitor your garden for pests, including whiteflies and tomato hornworms.

TREES & SHRUBS
✳️ Do NOT prune shrubs or trees in late summer or early autumn (September-October). Pruning stimulates new growth that may not have time to harden off before frost. Prune only diseased or dead limbs.
✳️ Water your trees to ensure they don't experience drought issues.

Collecting Seeds By EMG Stacy Hodes

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Fall is the perfect time to save seeds.  If you grow and save your own seed, you will end up with a better seed, unique to your specific garden and its growing conditions.  Is there a risk of cross pollination with seeds?  It could happen and that’s just fine.  It’s still gardening!


Vegetables

•Beans and Peas - Let some beans and peas stay on the vine until they start to dry out but before they split open.  Pick them and let them dry for a few weeks before shelling seeds.

•Lettuce - Lettuce will bolt at the end of their season forming flower pods.  The fibers within the pods are the seeds.

•Tomatoes and Green Peppers - Separate the seeds and let them dry out for a few days.

Flowers and Herbs - Many perennial and annual flowers and herbs can be harvested for seed.  After flower heads have dried out, collect each type of seed head in a paper bag.  Wait until fully dry to crush the flower heads, releasing the seed.  Good choices include:  zinnias, marigold, petunias, vinca, echinacea, black-eyed susan, basil, cilantro and dill.

Store seeds in glass jars in a cool, dry place - label and date everything. Seeds stored correctly can remain viable for 3-5 years.

Seed Collection Resources:

Saving Seeds, The Basics, the Benefits and Beyond (Podcast) -https://joegardener.com/podcast/saving-seeds-the-basics-the-benefits-and-beyond/

Saving your own seed - https://onslow.ces.ncsu.edu/2017/08/saving-your-own-seed/

Heirloom Vegetables - https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/heirloom-vegetables/

Photos courtesy of Pixabay

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Hammerhead Worms by EMG Gina Tadle 

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Hammerhead worms, (Bipalium spp.), are intriguing terrestrial flatworms characterized by their unique fan-shaped heads. These creatures belong to the Platyhelminthes phylum but are distinct from puffer fish in that they do not possess the neurotoxins found in those fish.

They are predatory carnivores that prey on small invertebrates such as insects, earthworms, and mollusks. Their hammerhead-shark-like heads house sensory structures that aid in detecting prey and navigating their environment.  When hunting, hammerhead worms use a combination of sticky secretions and mucus to immobilize and consume their victims.

These worms can be quite fascinating due to their appearance and predatory behavior.  While they are not considered harmful to humans, their presence has ecological implications as they impact local invertebrate populations, especially the earthworms which are crucial in keeping our soil healthy.

While native to Southeast Asia, hammerhead worms have been documented in various parts of the United States, including some regions on the East Coast. Therefore, the environmentally ethical thing to do is to dispose of them. Do not cut them up since they can regenerate but instead pour salt on them, let them sit for a few minutes, put on gloves, and put them in a plastic bag to place in the trash.

It is believed that they were introduced to the United States and other parts of the world through human activities such as the movement of soil, plants, and gardening materials. They are often found in moist and humid environments, such as gardens, forested areas, and other habitats with suitable conditions.

Photos Courtesy of grunge.com, ThoughtCo, and Flickr

            Creating Eden:  Your Garden’s Bones                   By EMG Sylvia HIndman  

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When you hear gardeners discussing the ‘bones’ of their gardens, they are referring to the items that hold a garden together and create its distinctive design.  Throughout much of the year, its structure can be hidden from us by the abundance of colorful flowers, lush shrubs, and leafy tree canopies.  But as fall approaches and our verdant landscape withers and leaves fall to the earth, in the bareness of winter we can assess what the garden needs before spring is upon us once again.  

First, consider improving the entrance to your property to make it more welcoming.  A few small flowering trees lining the drive - some well-placed rocks in ground-cover underplanted with cheerful spring bulbs - a corner fence or short pillars flanking the driveway - a charming lamppost - simple things can make your home stand out.  A freshly painted or stained front door, a window box or a few pots of seasonal flowers add a lovely finishing touch.  

Back in the yard, install paths to lead you through the garden or separate areas into beds or garden rooms.  Always choose materials to complement your style.  Pine straw, pebbles, wood mulch, or grass are best in casual settings. Use brick, stamped concrete, flagstone, or pavers in more formal gardens.  Focal points such as statues, yard art, fountains, rock walls, garden structures, etc., are your unique selections.  Be creative but also be aware that objects can be overdone.  

Building on the basics of garden design that we have covered, stay tuned. Berms, garden rooms, and several specialty gardens are on their way.  

Photos courtesy of By EMG Sylvia HIndman  

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Fall Wildflowers for Pollinators

By EMG Alden Picard

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Pollinators like bees, butterflies, and flies are responsible for around every third bite of food we take. Yes, flies too! Flies are major pollinators of our agricultural crops, only second to bees. In some instances, flies can even provide better pollination services than bees. Just a friendly plug for the flies. A good pollinator habitat provides forage from spring through fall. Below we will examine some of the best fall bloomers that are requisite to any pollinator garden in the Piedmont.

Swamp sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius) is an absolute showstopper. It can be observed flowering from late summer to the first frost when seldom else is blooming. This plant grows up to 8 feet tall! Each plant produces an abundance of 2-3-inch flowers with the classic yellow rays exhibited by many plants in the Asteraceae (daisy) family. Swamp sunflower is also the larval host to the silvery checkerspot butterfly, and its seeds are enjoyed by birds and small mammals alike.

Next on the list is aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium). Boasting beautiful purple rays throughout the fall, the disc flowers of this species make a great contrast to the yellow blooms of swamp sunflower. Aromatic aster forms low growing dense mounds that would be a great addition to any walkway or border. If aromatic aster is not for you, please consider any Symphyotrichum species. This genera supports numerous species of ground nesting mining (Andrena) bees native to North Carolina. Look for these furry flyers to emerge from their nests in early spring.

A discussion of fall wildflowers would not be complete without including goldenrod (Solidago spp.). Often confused with ragweed, this plant does not produce the windborne pollen that causes serious allergies and hay fever. This showy native is a pollinator magnet. It is even known to produce flows of nectar that honeybees take advantage of during the fall dearth. Often growing in naturalized areas and along roadsides, the blooms of this plant are visited by bees, wasps, beetles, butterflies, and flies alike. Consider this low maintenance, easy growing plant for any meadow or natural area.

The plants listed above are a mere few suggestions but do prefer full sun. For those with partial shade, consider planting boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) or mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum). These beauties bloom in the fall and attract their own set of pollinators to enjoy.

Photos courtesy of By EMG Alden Picard and

https://sciotogardens.com/product/aster-symphyotrichum-oblongifolius-2-aromatic-aster/

Gratitude in the Garden by EMG Parul Srivastava

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We are currently in the peak of the summer growing season. Our gardens are flush with plants laden with tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, etc., the sight of which brings us great joy. Can we take a moment to pause and reflect on a feeling that may have hitherto remain undiscovered, or perhaps unacknowledged? That feeling is perhaps best described by an Ancient Sanskrit phrase - "Vasudhev Kutumbakam", i.e. 'The Earth is Family.' We all instinctively know that we are physically borne of this planet, and to this planet we shall return. And during our time here, if we can consume with gratitude, then the simple act of plucking a ripe tomato off the vine becomes a spiritual experience. If we thank the plant as we take from it what it offers for our sustenance, we benefit in more ways than we can define. Can we expand our imagination to perceive that the plant senses our gratitude? It makes for a very different experience in the garden when we approach it as family, one that nurtures us in a myriad of ways.

Photos courtesy of Parul Srivastava

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It’s All in the Oil by EMG Marcia Ammons

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Essential oils have been used for centuries throughout the world for different purposes with history showing aromatic oils being used as early as 4500 BC in cosmetics and ointments.  Other cultures have continued their use for medicinal purposes through modern times.  Essential oils have also gained recognition by keeping your plants healthy and pests away from them.

There are many recipes available for DIY essential oil plant spray through the companies who specialize in their sale.  Most require 20 drops of essential oil combined with water, and in some instances, castile soap.  Some of the known benefits are to suppress fungal infections, repel insects, and control rodents, snails and slugs.

  • The most effective essential oils for fungus control are rosemary, oregano, and peppermint.
  • Rosemary, lavender and lemongrass oils can be used to repel flies, fleas and some insect larvae.
  • The scent of peppermint, spearmint and orange oils repel squash bugs, white files, and aphids.
  • Rodents don’t like minty smells and will relocate when you place a cotton ball with drops of peppermint near the entrance of rodent tunnels or burrows.
  • Spraying cedarwood, hyssop, garlic, orange and pine oils around the base of some garden plants will repel snails and slugs.

Essential oil sprays can be effective organic pest control.  However, always be sure to use pure oil that doesn’t contain additional ingredients that may be toxic to plants.

Resources:
http://thefarmersgarden.com/blog/5-Essential-Oils-for-Garden-Pest-Control.php#
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5694587/

Photo courtesy of EMG Marcia Ammon

Fall Vegetable Gardening – A Kinder Experience By EMG Connie Rothwell

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It’s September!  Bid a grateful farewell to waning tomato, zucchini, and cucumber plants.  It is time to start anew!

Fall gardening has many advantages. Most pesky insects have completed their life cycles, the air temperatures are milder, the soil temps are optimal, and gardeners are not roasting in the sun.  

So, map out a new garden grid for September planting that will carry you into late October for plants that mature in 60 days or less.  Other plants that take up to 120 days can be planted and later covered for the November frost.  Get ready to dig in and treat yourself to a new pair of gloves, too. 

Choose from this menu for late October harvest: bush beans, beets, green onions, lettuces, peas, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips, and if you were not satisfied with your summer crop, give zucchini another go.

Choose from this menu for late fall into winter harvest: broccoli, Brussel sprouts, bulb onions, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, collards, garlic bulbs, and kale. Plant fava beans that will mature in spring.  

The “cut and come again” plants like kale, Swiss chard, and lettuce often grow throughout the colder months into spring under row covers. It is always a treat to harvest fresh vegetables in winter!  

Photo courtesy of: https://ourvintagebungalow.com/funny-inspiring-vegetable-gardening-quotes

Solar Farming: Harvesting the Power of Sun Rays By EMG Tapasaya Chaturvedi

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In today's world, the sight of rooftops adorned with solar panels has become commonplace. However, a fascinating trend that's gaining remarkable popularity is the concept of solar farming. Imagine vast expanses of land covered with gleaming solar panels, capturing the boundless energy of the sun. These solar farms serve as dedicated powerhouses, distinct from traditional rooftop installations.

Solar farming isn't just about harnessing sunlight; it's about creating sprawling fields of energy potential. These impressive arrays of solar panels are strategically positioned on the ground, forming a picturesque landscape that's both environmentally conscious and visually captivating. There are two dominant solar energy technologies driving this innovative movement:

1. Photovoltaic Technology (PV): These panels, often seen glinting in the sunlight, consist of interconnected photovoltaic cells that generate a flow of electrons when exposed to sunlight. This electron flow is then harnessed as usable electric power, seamlessly integrating into the energy grid.

2. Concentrating Solar Thermal Power Technology (CSP): This technology uses mirrors or lenses to concentrate sunlight onto a small area, producing high temperatures that drive turbines and generators to create electricity.

As the sun's rays strike photovoltaic panels or get concentrated by CSP setups, they diligently convert sunlight into a clean and renewable energy source. This energy is then seamlessly integrated into the broader power grid, becoming a shared resource that powers homes, businesses, and industries alike.

In essence, solar farming isn't just a sight to behold; it's a transformative approach to energy generation. It harmonizes nature's brilliance with cutting-edge technology, paving the way for a brighter, more sustainable future.

 Water hemlock vs. Queen Anne’s lace

by EMG Gina Tadle 

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Water hemlock (Cicuta spp.) and Queen Anne's lace (Daucus carota) are both flowering plants, but they differ greatly in terms of appearance, habitat, toxicity, and historical significance.

Water hemlock is highly poisonous and grows in wet habitats across North America. It contains cicutoxin, a potent neurotoxin that affects the central nervous system. Ingesting even a small amount can lead to severe symptoms such as seizures, paralysis, and death. Its appearance is characterized by clusters of small white flowers, compound leaves, and a hollow stem with purple spots.

Queen Anne's lace is a non-toxic, edible plant found in Europe and North America. It's recognized for its delicate white flowers that form a flat-topped, umbrella-like cluster. Its leaves resemble fern fronds, and it has a distinctive reddish-purple flower in the center of the cluster, often referred to as a "queen."
 
Historically, Queen Anne's lace has been cultivated for its culinary uses and is the wild ancestor of the cultivated carrot. Symbolically it is a representation of delicacy and natural beauty. Water hemlock, on the other hand, has a darker history.  It was notorious for being used as a means of execution in some ancient civilizations, and its poisonous nature has led to fatalities among humans and livestock.

Photo 1: Water hemlock  Photos 2 and 3 Queen Anne’s lace

Photos courtesy of ordinary-times, wallpapersafari, and EMG Gina Tadle

Grow Garlic Like a Pro By EMG Gina Tadle

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Growing garlic is as easy as pushing the garlic bulb cloves down into the soil. However, here are a few simple tips to know first.

  • Don’t use supermarket garlic. It has been treated to prevent premature sprouting and to kill pathogens. Consider ordering your garlic or getting organic garlic from the farmer’s market.
  • Break the garlic bulb down into cloves, leaving the skin on. Plant the cloves in rich organic, well-drained soil in full sun. Do not plant garlic in an area where you have grown garlic or onions in the previous year. 
  • Plant cloves point side up, 1 inch deep and 4 inches apart, and water in. 
  • Water well when the soil is dry or roughly 1 inch a week.
  • Fall plantings will be ready to harvest in the spring when the foliage is turning yellow.
  • Allow harvested plants to dry in the sun for a few hours and then spread them out in a well vented area until the tops are fully dry. This will take 3 – 4 weeks. 
  • Store bulbs in a cool, dry place. Garlic can also be frozen.

Photos courtesy of EMGs Gina Tadle, Parul Srivastava, and NCSU

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The Mecklenburg Extension Master Gardener Volunteer (EMGV) program operates under the Mecklenburg Center of the NC Cooperative Extension Service (NCCES), a part of NC State University and NC A&T State University. 

NCCES is a part of Mecklenburg County Park and Recreation.

NC State University and N.C. A&T State University commit themselves to positive action to secure equal opportunity and prohibit discrimination and harassment regardless of age, color, disability, family and marital status, gender identify, genetic information, national origin, political beliefs, race, religion, sex (including pregnancy), sexual orientation and veteran status. NC State, N.C. A&T, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local governments cooperating.